What are the benefits of DMS face cream?

At a time when more and more people are struggling with intolerances, allergies and a variety of skin problems, our DMS facial creams with their skin-related lipid structure offer an innovative and at the same time highly effective solution for sustainable facial care for sensitized and very sensitive skin. The myrto DMS creams are helpful and ideal for every skin type and every skin concern.

What is DMS cream?

DMS creams, which stand for "Derma Membrane Structure", are particularly well-known in professional dermatological and cosmetic practice as part of corneotherapy. Corneotherapy is based on the approach of improving skin health by strengthening the skin barrier.

DMS creams are mainly used for skin problems such as atopic eczema or neurodermatitis, rosacea, acne or psoriasis. DMS creams are also used after dermatological procedures such as acid peels, microdermabrasion or laser treatments to improve skin regeneration and reduce irritation.

Skin-identical lipids: phospholipids & ceramides

DMS creams are formulated biomimetically, i.e. based on nature's model. Their structure imitates the lamellar lipid layers that make up the top layer of skin (epidermis). In addition to triglycerides, free fatty acids, cholesterol and squalene from vegetable oils, they mainly contain skin-identical phospholipids, which are a kind of precursor to ceramides in the skin and play a crucial role in their synthesis.

As a reminder: The structure of the epidermis can be compared to a wall. The bricks correspond to the skin cells, while the mortar between them corresponds to the ceramides. Ceramides are essential components of the skin barrier, they make up around 40 - 50% of the lipids in the epidermis.

Natural cosmetic creams with common emulsifiers

Emulsifiers have the task of keeping the aqueous and oily parts of a cream together in a stable manner. Depending on the proportion of aqueous and oily parts, a distinction is made between O/W and W/O emulsions. Emulsifiers in natural cosmetics are usually based on the esterification of fatty acids and alcohols. Examples are glycerin mono- and diglycerides or wax esters such as glyceryl stearate SE, cetearyl alcohol, sorbitan monostearates, sorbitan oleates or polyglycerin esters.

Emulsifier-free DMS creams with phosphatidylcholine

In contrast, we do not use conventional emulsifiers in our DMS creams. Instead, myrto face creams contain the skin-related active ingredient "phosphatidylcholine" from the group of phospholipids in hydrogenated form, which you can find on the ingredients list under the name "Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine".

Phospholipids are important components of cell membranes. They have the ability to lock in moisture and serve as the skin's own emulsifiers. They are arranged in such a way that they form a lamellar structure consisting of several layers of lipids. These layers are arranged alternately lipophilic (fat-loving) and hydrophilic (water-loving), so that aqueous and oily active ingredients are bound in a lamellar manner. In addition to achieving a stable consistency, these emulsifier-free creams also strengthen the skin barrier against water loss and the penetration of foreign substances.

What are the main differences between an emulsifier-free DMS cream and creams with emulsifiers?

• Strengthening the skin barrier vs. weakened skin barrier due to washout effect
  The DMS cream does not require the use of emulsifiers. It has an effective skin-like, lamellar lipid bilayer to lock in aqueous and oily active ingredients, whereas a conventional cream contains esterified fatty acid emulsifiers that can also bind to skin lipids of the barrier layer and release them from the skin barrier (washing out the skin lipids).
• Improved immune defense vs. inflammation, pimples & acne
  DMS creams make it possible to rebuild a weakened or damaged barrier layer. DMS creams improve the skin's own immune defense against environmental pollutants, UV radiation, bacteria and other irritants. They thus prevent inflammation, pimples and acne.
• manufacturing process
  The production of a DMS cream with a lamellar lipid structure requires technologically sophisticated high-pressure homogenization and is very costly and time-consuming. In contrast, normal low-speed emulsification is much more cost-effective and simpler.
• Increased skin moisture vs. dry, irritated skin
  DMS creams minimize water loss through the skin, the so-called TEWL (= trans epidermal water loss). DMS creams with a lamellar lipid structure are thus able to increase the moisture content of the uppermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) in the long term and thus counteract premature skin aging.
  
  While the horny layer of balanced skin contains around 10 - 20% moisture, the moisture content is significantly reduced when the skin barrier is disturbed. This dysfunction manifests itself in dry, cracked or itchy skin with a tendency to blemishes. The measurement of a low TEWL rate in DMS creams indicates an intact skin barrier with a high moisture content, so that the skin remains supple and youthfully smooth in the long term.

The emulsifier-free myrto DMS face creams

The myrto face creams are particularly suitable for sensitive and problematic skin. The optimized tolerability was confirmed by the Dermatest Institute for sensitive skin and rated "Excellent". All myrto face creams and masks contain neither fragrances nor alcohol nor synthetic preservatives, palm oil or common emulsifiers.

Here you can find the myrto DMS face masks and myrto night creams.

literature

Gutekunst, D., van Hoogevest, P., et al., “The effect of saturated phospholipids on human skin assessed with shotgun lipidomic

analysis”, Poster presented at the 11th World Meeting on Pharmaceutics, Biopharmaceutics and Pharmaceutical Technology, Granada/Spain, 2018, 19-22 th March 2018

Thomas Lee, Adam Friedman, “Skin Barrier Health: Regulation and Repair of the Stratum Corneum and the Role of Over-the-Counter Skin Care.”,in: Drugs Dermatol. 2016, Sep 1;15(9):1047-51

C. Harding, “The stratum corneum: structure and function in health and disease”, in: Dermatologic Therapy 2004, 17(1), 6 – 15

P. Elias, “Structure and function of the stratum corneum extracellular matrix,” in: Journal of Investigative Dermatology 2012, 132(9), 2131 – 2133