At a time when more and more people are struggling with intolerances, allergies and skin problems, our DMS facial creams, with their skin-related lipid structure, offer an innovative and at the same time highly effective, sustainable solution for facial care for sensitized and very sensitive skin. The myrto DMS creams are helpful and ideal for every skin type and every skin concern.
What is a DMS cream?
DMS creams, which stand for “Derma Membrane Structure”, are primarily known in professional dermatological and cosmetic practice as part of corneotherapy. Corneotherapy is based on the approach of improving skin health by strengthening the skin barrier.
DMS creams are primarily used for skin problems such as neurodermatitis, rosacea, acne or psoriasis. DMS creams are also used after dermatological procedures such as acid peels, microdermabrasion or laser treatments to improve skin regeneration and reduce irritation.
Skin-identical lipids: phospholipids and ceramides
DMS creams are formulated to mimic the lamellar lipid layers that make up the top layer of skin (epidermis). In addition to triglycerides, free fatty acids, cholesterol and squalene from plant oils, they mainly contain phospholipids, which are a type of precursor to ceramides in the skin and play an important role in their synthesis.
As a reminder: the structure of the skin can be compared to a wall. The bricks correspond to the skin cells, while the mortar between them corresponds to the ceramides. Ceramides are essential components of the skin barrier; they make up approx. 40 – 50% of the lipids in the epidermis.
Natural cosmetic creams with common emulsifiers
Emulsifiers have the task of holding the watery and oily parts of a cream together in a stable manner. Depending on the proportions of aqueous and oily components, a distinction is made between O/W and W/O emulsions. Emulsifiers in natural cosmetics are usually based on the esterification of fatty acids and alcohols. Examples are glycerol mono- and diglycerides or wax esters such as glyceryl stearate SE, cetearyl alcohol, sorbitan monostearates, sorbitan oleates or polyglycerol esters.
Emulsifier-free DMS creams with phosphatidylcholine
In contrast, we do not use conventional emulsifiers in our DMS creams. Instead, the myrto face creams contain the skin-related active ingredient “phosphatidylcholine” from the group of phospholipids in hydrogenated form, which you can find on the ingredients list under the name “hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine”.
Phospholipids are important components of cell membranes. They have the ability to lock in moisture and serve as the skin's own emulsifiers. They are arranged to form a lamellar structure consisting of several layers of lipids. These layers are arranged alternately lipophilic (fat-loving) and hydrophilic (water-loving), so that aqueous and oily active ingredients are bound in a lamellar manner. In addition to achieving a stable consistency, these emulsifier-free creams also strengthen the skin barrier against water loss and the penetration of foreign substances.
What are the most important differences between a DMS cream and creams with usual emulsifiers?
- Strengthening the skin barrier vs. weakened skin barrier due to washout effect
The DMS cream has an effective skin-like, lamellar lipid bilayer, while a usual cream with a dipolar structure contains foreign emulsifiers that bind to the skin's own lipids in the barrier layer and can release these fats from the skin barrier in the long term (washout effect). - Improved immune defense against inflammation, pimples and acne
DMS creams make it possible to rebuild a weakened or disturbed barrier layer. DMS creams improve the skin's own immune defense against environmental pollutants, UV radiation, bacteria and other irritants. This helps prevent inflammation, pimples and acne. - Manufacturing process
The production of a DMS cream with a lamellar lipid structure requires high-pressure homogenization and is very cost-intensive and time-consuming. In contrast, normal low-speed emulsification is much cheaper and simpler. - Increased skin moisture vs. dry, irritated skin
DMS creams minimize water loss through the skin, the so-called TEWL (= trans epidermal water loss). DMS creams with a lamellar lipid structure are able to increase the moisture content of the top layer of skin (stratum corneum) in the long term, keep the skin youthfully smooth in the long term and thus counteract premature skin aging.While the horny layer of balanced skin contains approx. 10 - 20% moisture, the moisture content is significantly reduced if the skin barrier is disturbed. This dysfunction manifests itself in dry, cracked or itchy skin with a tendency to breakouts. Measuring a low TEWL rate in DMS creams indicates an intact skin barrier with high moisture content, so that the skin remains supple and youthfully smooth in the long term.
The myrto DMS facial creams
The myrto face creams are particularly suitable for sensitive and irritated skin. The particularly good tolerability was confirmed by the Dermatest Institute for Sensitive Skin and rated “Dematest Excellent”. All myrto face creams and masks contain no fragrances, alcohol, synthetic preservatives, palm oil or common emulsifiers.
Here you will find the myrto DMS face masks and myrto night creams.
Literature
Gutekunst, D., van Hoogevest, P., et al., „The effect of saturated phospholipids on human skin assessed with shotgun lipidomic
analysis“, Poster presented at the 11th World Meeting on Pharmaceutics, Biopharmaceutics and Pharmaceutical Technology, Granada/ Spain, 2018, 19-22 th March 2018
Thomas Lee, Adam Friedman, „Skin Barrier Health: Regulation and Repair of the Stratum Corneum and the Role of Over-the-Counter Skin Care“.,in: Drugs Dermatol. 2016, Sep 1;15(9):1047-51
C. Harding, „ The stratum corneum: structure and function in health and disease“, in: Dermatologic Therapy 2004, 17(1), 6 – 15
P. Elias, „ Structure and function of the stratum corneum extracellular matrix“, in: Journal of Investigative Dermatology 2012, 132(9),
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